Monday, September 05, 2011

Kachina Trail, Flagstaff AZ

I had Monday off to celebrate Labor Day. It was a nice day in Phoenix when I headed up to Flagstaff to hike the Kachina Trail. I thought this would be a nice trail to get out of the heat, but since there were no significant elevation gains, it would be fairly easy on my knees.


The hike started out nice, walking through the woods and into fields of wildflowers.

Along with all the flowers were bunches of caterpillars.

 About 4 miles into the trail, we hit a nice clearing and stopped for a snack. I couldn't resist the urge to hoop down the trail.
I don't leave home without it!

Then scary-looking rain clouds started moving in over the mountains. We decided to cut the hike short and turn around where we were, rather than hiking the full 5.2 miles before returning.
It's a good thing we did! We hadn't hiked more than 5 minutes back when we started feeling sprinkles. Then we heard thunder and it really started raining.

Luckily most of the rain stopped when we were about half way back to the parking lot, and my pants had a chance to dry off before getting to the parking lot. They were a bit damp and muddy below the knees, but quicky dried once I was back in the car.

Even with the cold rain, it was a nice break from Phoenix and a great way to spend the day.

Monday, August 29, 2011

Butterfly Trail - Santa Catalina Mountains, Tucson

This weekend the hiking group headed down to Tucson to hike the Butterfly Trail in the Santa Catalina Mountains (on Mount Lemmon).The trail lived up to its name with lots of butterflies, but it was so much more. In order to have butterflies, there were also lots of wildflowers, including these asters.

Yellow columbine
Indian paintbrush (with a grasshopper)

Crimson monkeyflower
The trail was a bit different than I anticipated. I had originally thought that most of it would be ascending up the mountain. Since my knee was still a bit fatigued from my Peru trip, that was a good thing.
Unfortunately, over half of the trail was spent descending into a ravine to the spring before we could ascend back out.
Despite the longer descent - and my throbbing knees - the trail was pretty and there were delights like these wild raspberries growing along the way.
There were also interesting beetlesincluding these Pleasing Fungus Beetles
and their creepy looking larvae/pupae that were hanging off a log.
I was thrilled when we finally reached the climb. My knee was happier and I could go full throttle and race up the hills.
This gave me the chance to break out my hoop and play for a while as I waited for some of the others to catch up.
Just as we finished the hike, we saw this mushroom, that looked like it was straight out of Alice in Wonderland.
After a bit of confusion about where the cars were parked (we did a shuttle), we climbed into the shuttle car and then into the minivan that we carpooled to Tucson in. As we headed down the mountain, we hoped that there was enough gas to make it to the first station (luckily, there was - but just under a half gallon left when we filled up!)
Trail Stats:
Distance Hiking = 5.7 miles
Trailhead Elevation = 7725 feet
Elevation Gain = 1800 feet
Avg Time Hiking = 3 hours (we took 4 hours, including breaks and lots of pictures)

Monday, August 22, 2011

Saturday, August 13, 2011

The Ultimate Trek: eating, hiking, and sleeping my way to Choquequirao and Machu Picchu

After months of training, I was finally starting the Choquequirao to Machu Picchu trek through Apus-Peru. This took place on August 13-21, 2011.

Due to a canceled flight, one of the group members arrived the morning of the trek, delaying our start time by 2 hours. I enjoyed sleeping those extra two hours and leaving the hotel at 8 am instead of 6 am. Thanks Brad! :-)

OUR DAILY ROUTINE
aka
Eat Hike Sleep... Eat Hike Sleep... Repeat 5X/Day for 8 Days

We basically followed the same routine each day, although starting and ending times varied a bit. Generally, one of the horsemen woke us in the morning with a hot cup of coca tea. We then had 15-30 minutes to get dressed, pack up our gear and day packs, and meet for breakfast.

Breakfast consisted of a hot liquid porridge/gruel made of some kind of grain. For the first half of the trip, I tried the porridge each day, but usually could not choke down more than a sip or two (disclaimer: I don't like hot cereals like oatmeal or cream of wheat). By the end of the trip, I didn't even bother to taste it anymore. One day we had hot chocolate instead, which I happily consumed. We also had bread, butter, and strawberry jam each day. We also had fresh fruit, or pancakes with caramel sauce, or an omelet. The food was accompanied by hot water and an assortment of teas, hot chocolate powder, and instant coffee.

After breakfast we usually had about 15 minutes to use the restroom, brush our teeth, finish packing, and fill our water bottles before heading out for the day. Note about the restroom. At some of the camps we had actual toilets, but at most we did not. Sometimes there was an established squat or pit toilet (no seat!). If there was no toilet at all, the trekking company dug a hole in the ground and put a tent around the hole for privacy. I had interpreted the "toilet tent" that they mentioned on their website as having a portable chemical/camping toilet or at least having a bucket to sit on above the hole in the ground. Was I shocked the first time I needed to use it!

Following breakfast, we started the hike for the day. On most days, we would hike about 2.5-3 hours before we stopped at a "rest stop" for a snack. Our daily snack consisted of a piece of fresh fruit (apple, orange, banana) and a small package of cookies or cereal bars. About half the time, we stopped for a snack in a small village where additional fruit, cookies, chips, soft drinks, or water could be purchased.

After our snack and a short rest (15-20 minutes) we would hike for an additional 2-3 hours until we reached the lunch spot. The lunches were amazing.
We would start with an appetizer like this pizza

or this ham and asparagus dish.


The appetizer was then followed by a bowl of hot soup. Most of the time it was a broth soup with vegetables and a grain (wheat, oats, rice, quinoa) but sometimes it was a vegetable puree (mushroom or asparagus).
Following the soup, we had the main dish and sides. Most of the time they were served family/buffet style.We had a meat dish that was usually beef or chicken. In this case it was orange chicken.

We also had vegetables, beans or lentils, and at least one kind of starch (rice, potatoes, and/or pasta). It was impossible to still be hungry after lunch!

There were a couple of times when we had a plated lunch - when the cook didn't have access to a kitchen or the "kitchen tent". This fried rice and stuffed chicken was our picnic lunch on the first day just outside of Cachora before we actually started hiking.

This stuffed chili pepper and rice was the plated picnic lunch we had (along with the pizza and a bowl of mushroom soup) at the top of the Abra Victoria pass at 4130m/13,546' elevation.

We typically spent 1-2 hours at each lunch stop. Sometimes we ate almost immediately after arriving, but usually we had time for a 15-20 minute rest (nap) before lunch and another 15-20 minute digestion period following lunch.

After lunch, we would hike an addition 2-3 hours to our campsite. We usually arrived at the campsite in the late afternoon, but twice we arrived right around dusk.

Shortly after arriving at the campsite, we would have tea. Depending on how much time we had before tea, we might take a nap, a shower if available, wash some clothes, or just kick back and relax.
On most nights, we would have fried "wontons" that were filled with fried bananas, cheese, ham, or covered with caramel sauce.

We would also have cookies and a big plate of popcorn. Of course, we would have an assortment of teas (tea bags and coca leaves), instant coffee, and hot chocolate mix. We got a good laugh one night when somebody actually read the label on the tea bags and discovered the brand was Hornimans. It was even funnier when we tried to explain to our guide why we found the name so funny.

Following tea, we would have about 1 hour before dinner. By this time it was dark and usually cold. We typically went to our tents to read, chat, or nap until we were called for dinner.
Dinner would start with a bowl of hot soup, similar to the types served at lunch (but never a repeat of that day's lunch).

We would also have at least one starch (usually 2 or 3): pasta, rice, potatoes, yucca, etc., often with a warm vegetable sauce (tomato and onions) to scoop over it.
We also had a vegetable dish. In this case it is beets, carrots, and green beans.


And we had a meat dish. The dish above is fried cuy (Guinea pig) with battered and fried yucca root. Most of the time the meat was chicken or beef, and we also had fish one night.


Our cook Herbert did a great job of keeping us well fed!

Following dinner, we would chat a bit about what we saw during the day, discuss the morning's hike, have another cup of tea, and then head off to our tents for bed.

Day 1: Cachora to Chikisca

After a 4 hour drive from Cusco, we were finally at the starting place just outside of Cachora. We ate a quick picnic lunch, and then we were off. There were a total of 5 of us in the group. One married couple (Kerryn and Ben) and three solo travelers (Emilie, Brad, and me).

NOTE: Click on each picture to see a larger image.

We couldn't have been more than 10 minutes into the hike when we heard a bunch of birds making noise. After getting a bit closer, we discovered a flock of green parakeets. We joked with our guide Arturo that we expected to see amazing wildlife every five minutes. He looked a bit worried until he realized we were joking.

The first couple of kilometers were fairly easy along a gravel road. There were a few gradual inclines, but essentially it was pretty flat.

We followed the road until we reached the newly constructed building at this curve. It will eventually be a ranger/passport check point for this trek.

After passing the house, the road turned more into a dirt and gravel trail that hugged the side of the mountain.

Then it began to descend towards the Apurimac River.

While we were hiking, the staff cleaned up our lunch and loaded up the mules. Here they finally caught up to us (and then passed us so they could set up the campsite).

Along the way, we were treated to gorgeous views of snow capped mountains.
The trail continued to hug the side of the mountain and descend. You can see the Apurimac River at the bottom of the canyon.

As we descended into the canyon, it got hotter and drier and the vegetation sparser.

Looking at the trail ahead of us. Luckily we took the bigger trail in the picture and not the steep set of switchbacks. We would do trails similar to those later.

With the switchbacks, we frequently got views that looked like we would fall off the end of the trail.

But the trail always turned and we never fell off.


Finally we reached camp near Chikisca. The crew was already there and had our tents set up and waiting for us. My knee was throbbing from the descent, so I took about 600 mg of ibuprofen a few minutes before tea time.

We all sat down to enjoy tea. I was famished and ate a bit too much of the wontons, popcorn and cookies.

My stomach was feeling a bit upset, so I took a short nap between tea and dinner. Still feeling overly full, I barely ate any dinner and had to add another layer of fleece because I was feeling chilled. Immediately after dinner, I ran to the bathroom and promptly threw up everything I ate. Not fun! For the rest of the night, I wore a path into the ground between my tent and the bathrooms, getting sick from one end or the other all night long.

Hiking Stats:
Distance: 16 km / 9.9 miles
Duration: 5 hours
Elevation gain: 250m / 820'
Elevation loss: 1200m / 3,936'

Camping at 1950m / 6,398'